![\"MOCC](\"http:\/\/www.gcomotorsports.com\/specr53\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/MOCCmount.jpg\")
<\/a>Since space under the hood is at a premium on the first generation Cooper S, you have to get creative.\u00a0 The Mishimoto Oil Catch Can Kit used here is a universal part. \u00a0[We now carry an even more compact design can<\/a> in the store.] The upside is it is much less expensive than others on the market; the downside is you will have to figure out how to fit it to your car.\u00a0 Besides the Oil Catch Can kit, you’ll need the following from your local hardware and auto parts stores: Bracket, bolts, and nuts; 1\/2 inch to 3\/8 inch coupling reducer (two of them); zip-ties (you always need zip-ties); and if you don’t like the hose that comes with the kit, you’ll need about 4 feet of 5\/8 inch hose. You will also need a hole-saw bit to drill two 3\/4 inch holes if you choose to mount the can next in this location. Also get two grommets that fit the holes you drilled and have an inner diameter of the hose you choose.\u00a0 Expect to pay $10-$12 for all that (more if you have to buy the hole-saw bit.) I found grommets at NAPA auto-parts.\u00a0 Look for PCV Grommets and then choose the right size.<\/p>\nWe chose to mount the can in the passenger side cowl area between the ABS control unit and the firewall.\u00a0 There is a threaded nub there that can be used for mounting.\u00a0 Test fit the can and then decide the additional hardware needed to make the connection.\u00a0 We ended up using two nylon spacers and a two and a half inch piece of metal with two holes 1 3\/4 inch apart, but you’ll have to check what works for your application.\u00a0 We also stuck sticky piece of sound insulation foam on the bottom of the can to ensure it didn’t rattle. Check that your hood insulation doesn’t interfere with your hose placement by putting some chalk on the upper edge of the hose and closing the hood.\u00a0 Check for chalk transfer to the hood liner.\u00a0 If you get a little, don’t sweat it.\u00a0 If you get a lot, try to place the can lower in the cavity or tip it so the hose sits lower in the cavity.<\/p>\n
If you have an ’02-’04 model car and have not installed the cabrio strut braces like we did, you might be able to fit the can next to the motor mount by relocating the grounding wire.\u00a0 Just check that you can still close the hood without binding.\u00a0 Some people choose to install next to the radiator reservoir so they don’t have to drill the cowl.\u00a0 There’s room to fit it, but you have to remove the can when you want to change the oil filter.<\/p>\n There is a second PCV vent in the crankcase that runs directly to the intake tube before the throttle-body.\u00a0 Some people choose to connect both of the vent valves to the can and draw the vacuum from the intake tube instead of the gray tube (which they cap off.) Some people have no problems with it; while others constantly throw codes.<\/p>\n If you want to try this second method, you’ll need a few extra parts including an additional 2 feet\u00a0of hose, a T-adapter, and a 3\/8 cap. The cap is probably the hardest part to find, but if you contact us, we’ll ship you one for 50 cents plus postage. \u00a0The routing in this model looks like the image below:<\/p>\n![\"MOCC](\"http:\/\/www.gcomotorsports.com\/specr53\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/MOCClayout.jpg\")
<\/a>Next you need to be able to route the hoses to the engine.\u00a0 We drilled two holes through the plastic cowl compartment with a hole saw.\u00a0 Put a piece of wood behind it so you do not saw into your brake lines.\u00a0 Space the holes far enough apart that you can fit grommets into each without overlapping. On the left side of the valve cover is the PCV valve<\/a>. There is a short hose that runs from the valve to a gray vacuum hose that sits under the intercooler. Pull the hose off of the PCV Valve and then cut it as shown by the yellow lines in the picture.\u00a0 You want about an inch to leave on the gray vacuum line. Insert your reducing couplers and put the hose stub back on the PCV valve, only point the “L” to the left instead of the right. Size your hoses going to the can so they do not kink. Secure with hose clamps as needed and zip-tie so they do not move excessively.\u00a0 Start your car and listen for vacuum leaks.\u00a0 If you have a rough idle or you throw a code, you need to check your connections.\u00a0 Remember to check the can in a few weeks for oil and other fluids.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.gcomotorsports.com\/specr53\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/OCC-LAYOUT.jpg\")
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